Category: Woven

 

 

 

History

In early 1801 Joseph Marie Jacquard who was a silk weaver invented the jacquard loom for the textile industry. This loom was one of the first machines to use punched cards. On each card there were holes which represented recorded patterns which were held together with string. These cards control the weave and allowed the workmen to produce beautiful patterns. This process was carried out with great patience, hard work and skill.

Throughout Josephs life he had always connected to the textile environment as his parents had their own weaving business. The role of the weaver was to produce material however this process took a long time to complete. Later Joseph had inherited the family weaving business once this parent had passed away. Through Josephs invention the textile industry increases with their production service as time had been saved and had advanced the technology process as card pattern could be repeated to achieve the same product. The Great Idea Finders (26/11/06)

The rectangular card used in the loom were made very thick rectangular. These cards gave machines the ability to follow an algorithm. Through these cards having the capability to store information on the computers were able to identify and read the processes required.

As of today, the Jacquard loom requires very little support from workers and the patterns created are more accurate. Other fabrics that which are produced on the Jacquard loom are Damask, Matelassé and Brocade. This type of weave is having a very complex textured and can also be very similar in colour to other woven fabrics. The reason for this occurring as the pattern is woven into the fabric rather than printed. The patterns which are created normally swirl or floral and come in many different colours. Many different fibres are used today however previously silk was used regularly. Kelly Mitchell (2018)

 

 

 

Jacquard Weave Production Methods
The Jacquard loom is called the forefather of automatic calculators as of today it is called a computer. This was one of the first machines which could read information from cards. There are five stages to the Jacquard weaving.
Stage 1

The threads work together and are collected in the same heddle and are joined to the counterweight by string hanging above.
Stage 2

Each string is connected to a serious of punched cards which are placed on the rotating cylinder. For every hole on the piece of pasteboard corresponds to the pattern which appears on the fabric.

Stage 3

The holes on the pasteboard let only the corresponding counterweight fall. If the card has a hole where the string can pass, then the weight falls and lifts only the warp threads that are connected to it. All other warp threads remain where they are.

Stage 4

The weft threads can connect with the weft and create a pattern.

Stage 5

Once all the weaving the workman pushes the weft thread with a beater allowing all the punched cards to move forward. Later the sting finds new holes and continue growing.

 

Physical Properties

The Jacquard  weave incredible durability as with excessive friction and rubbing  the weave has the ability  to recover and through this quality products have a longer life span.

Often this type of weave can have variety of compositions  and weights depending on the purpose. There are light weight  Jacquard weaves made to for the summer season . And the heavier weave is created  for the winter. Tissura (n.d)

Other insights into the jacquard weave has elasticity within it and there is a stretch is created . This  can over stretch and return  to originals size because  it has been mixed with  elastic fibres . These are often called Spandex, Lycra or elastane .

More qualities is that is has a non crease resistance within it and this means that there it no  requirements to iron and  his will remain elegant . However  a dis- advantage that has been recognised it that fraying can occur. Also this weave can be very expensive as it takes longer to produce in comparison to other weaves because of the float  are longer.

When laundering the Jacquard  weave has to be taken care is required inn regards to sometimes the type of fabric. A low wash it  suitable and no bleach agents to be used. It is not advised to wring this type of weave and allow it to dry flat away from direct sunlight. However when attempting to iron this weave this has to be turned outside in first. Tissura (n.d)

Aesthetic Properties

The type of weave can be recognised very easily through its colour and texture. There is also good lustre in the fabric where light shines  creating a nice sheen effect. Kelly Mitchell (2018)

The jacquard weave can be a heavy type of fabric however it fit closely to the body with some styles . There are a variety of textured complex designs which can be created and achieved on this type of loom

 

The Type Products Made of Jacquard

There are various products which are created through the Jacquard weave these consist of dresses, linings, draperies, blouses, decorative pieces and trimmings.

References

Kelly Mitchell, (2018) Catwalk Yourself-The Pathway to Fashion Enlightens. http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/jacquard/ (12/11/18)

Luigi Bevilacqua, (n.b) Jacquard weave in five moves. https://www.luigi-bevilacqua.com/en/jacquard-weaving-5-moves-works / (12/11/18)

The Great Idea Finders, (26/11/06) Jacquard Loom. http:// http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/jacquard.htm (12/11/18)

Tissura(n.d), Jacquard fabrics Review.https://tissura.com/articles/jacquard-fabrics (09/03/19)

History

The satin weave was created in China more than two thousand years ago. Through desired planning in the creation there were brocade textile made from the drawing loom. These then became more eye-catching textures through the silver and gold thread been attached. This satin weave was very expensive and mainly consumed by those of the upper class. Encyopedia of Clothing Fashion (2005)

However, come the second millennium peasant women became experts in special techniques in relation to silk material. At that time silk was seen within every culture as a luxury and information into how it was created became a well-kept secret. After technology had expanded the satin weave became a huge interest in counties such as Japan, Korea, Thailand, India and other parts of south Asia. Satin was then produced in large amounts. Encyopedia of Clothing Fashion (2005)

Once cultures all connected satin weaving then expanded in countries such as Italy, France, Spain, the Netherlands, England and America. Throughout this time the satin weave had various names, the of peau de soie which had a matte look with tiny diagonal lines and charmeuse that had a light weight pebbly satin. This was also called crepe back satin. Encyopedia of Clothing Fashion (2005)

The satin weave is one of the three basic weaves structures which has been in use from ancient times. It can be recognised as being a luxurious, romantic, sensuous fabric. This satin weave is most popular with fabrics created from fine silk and sateen. On occasions the satin weave can be created from man-made fibres such as rayon and polyester.

 

 

The Satin Weave Production Methods

 

Stage 1

When creating the satin weave, the warp yarns is evenly spaced across the loom and anchored at either end. The technique various compared to the other weaves as their main process was for fibres to be passed through over and under. The satin weave passed process is for fibres to pass over several threads of the loom and under one to then anchor.

Stage 2

The most popular number of wefts to pass over is four. The long stretches of weft fibre are called floats. It is through these floats is where the lustrous surface is created on the fabric. To heighten the lustre, the calendaring process is used. There they flattened the fabric with a heated roller. This process is called the Pane Satin. Kelly Michelle (2018)

The physical Properties
The physical properties of the satin weave are that it has great elasticity and through these fibres can be over stretched and then return to the original shape. Satin weave is very versatile to work with.

However, there are some negatives to the satin weave which must be considered when designing. When creating garments through the process of pattern cutting and sewing the fabric can fray easily.Other issues that can arise when wearing the product or sewing is that the fabric can snag easily. The reason being is that there are longer floats (longer stitches) in this type of weave. There also must be specific care process in place when laundering this type of satin weave. Kelly Michelle (2018)

The Aesthetic Properties
The satin weave can when created into products such dresses and through the drape hanging well on the body this can create a sensual, romantic look when worn. Also, this textured luxury fabric is seen as elegant and expensive.

Depending on the type of warp satin the effects of how it sits on the body can different. As for satin warp weave used in creating elegant ball gowns and full length skirts the fabric sits away from the body.

 

The types of Products made of Satin

The garments which are made from the satin weave consists of evening wear, lingerie, linings, facings, sportswear, hats, shirts, ties, ballet slippers and wedding gowns.

 

References  
Encyopedia of Clothing Fashion, (2005) Weaving satin. Satin Weavehttps://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/weave-satin(11/11/18)
Kelly Michelle,(2018) Catwalk Yourself, The Path to fashion Enlighten.http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/satin( 11/11/18)

 

 

 

 

Twill Types

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. To identify this type of weave there are pronounced lines which runs all the way through the width of the fabric. Also, it has a higher resistance to tearing compared to a plain weave as fewer yarn per interlacing in each section. Twill weaves can be produced in various ways. Twill Weaves (2018)

Twill Weaving Production Methods

The yarn is passed from the weft passed over two of the loom threads and under two and then repeated patterns is carried out throughout until the loom is complete. The pattern can vary depending on which type of twill weave required. There are many different types of twill weaves, there originally was the cavalry twill which made uniforms. Centre Front Studio (07/11/17)

The physical properties
The twill weaves physical properties regarding the fabric denim there is excellent  durability . This means that denim can out stand other weaved fabrics regarding being rubbed aggressively without creating holes. Denim appears to be a fantastic fabric which has ability for garments to last for years.

Through time and the amount of washing carried out allows the denim to soften. There are negatives within the twill weaves abilities. Whilst through the process of creating garments the twill can fray. To prevent this from continuing in denims there is hems been made. There is also a huge amount of dye that transfers throughout the production process as well as and afterwards. Centre Front Studio (07/11/17)

 

The Aesthetic Properties
Through the twill weave the denim products they appear to hold their shape and texture no matter how many washed and wear and tear. Also, this twill can appear non-wrinkled compared to other types of weave. Centre Front Studio (07/11/17)

 

 

 

 

The Type of Products made from twill weave

 

As of today, there are many garments made from the different types of twill weaves. These consists of chinos, skirts, dresses and very soft suits. One of the most produced products today made from twill weave is denim.
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Its twill weave can be produced in a right or left-hand weave. Originally the fibres content was cotton. However, know cotton lyre blends is mixed with hemp or flax linen. Also, there are different weighs of denim depending on the thickness of the yarn. They are finished off with softeners abrasive washes or over dyed.

References 

Centre Front Studio, (07/11/17) Sewing and Pattern Cutting. http://centrefrontstudio.co.uk/fabric-know-how-twil-weave/ (09/11/18)
Textile School, (23/10/18) Twill Weave. https://www.textileschool.com/174/twill-weaves/
(05/11/18)

 

History 

One of the most popular weave which was identified in the 5000bc was the flax weave and this was discovered in Egypt. Later in 200bc wool then replaced the flax weave and required one or two people to work the looms. Years later there was the introduction of the vertical and horizontal loom which was found in Asia.
Over time weaving by hand began to reduce through the introduction of the weaving machine. This was created by John Kay in 1733 and was called the flying shuttle as it enabled wider fabrics to be weaved at one time and also it was incredibly faster.These  machines were slowly presented into the industry.  History of Clothing (2018).

As of today, the constructional method is used regular because it is simple to create, more cost effectively and adaptable. Woven fabrics are used in clothing and house hold products  .Also, plain weaving can be woven with different colours to create a fabrics which displays stripes, and these can be printed or have finishing applied. The most popular fabrics which are produced through the plain weaved consists of Taffeta, organza, Chiffon, Canvas, Tweed and Muslin.

 

 

 

Manufacturing Processes of a Plain Weave

 

Fabrics are mainly made through weaving or knitting yarn. On occasions some fabrics are bonded together or felted. Depending on which way a fabric is constructed it can appear and drape differently.
Woven fabrics are made up of a weft and this is the yarn going across the width. The yarn that runs up and down the length of the loom is called the warp. Down the side of the fabric were the wefts double back the way this is called the selvage. Through this technique the fabric is protected from fraying. Understanding Textiles (26/07/10)

Plain Weave Production Method

 

The most popular weave is the plain technique as its basic structure consists of threads passing over and under the warp and it has a repeated pattern making this easier to learn. Once the pattern starts to occur it represents a chequer boards surface and this is usually a balanced weave where yarn weights are identical. The threads tend to remain secure however it can wrinkle and have less absorbency than other weaves. This type of plain weave is known as Tabby or Calico. Most woven fabrics are made of yarn interlaced and are called the binding system. Textile School (20/03/18)

The Plain Weaves Process

Stage 1
Warp threads spaced out evenly up and down the way securely on the loom.

Stage 2

The weft yarn is then interwoven between these warp yarns.

Stage 3

To create plain weaving the weave starts by one under and one over process. This mean the weft goes under the warp yarn and then under the next.

Stage 4

This process is repeated until the complete fabric has been used.
Catwalk yourself (2018)

The Physical Properties

Regarding the plain weave physical properties, the firmness can depend on the frequency of the interlacing which runs between the warp and the weft threads. The more interlocking sections has tensity  to resist stress. However this  can also depend on the different type of origins, thickness, twist and weight. The weave is recognised for its durability no matter how much rubbing or friction there is no damaging effects which increases its usage. Encyclopaedia Britannia (2018)

Other benefits within the plain weave is it is versatile as there are no wrong sides and there is no stretch as the stitch runs across the length. Also there a strong elasticity and through  bending  repeatedly there is no breaks and return to it original size.

When laundering this weave there is no creasing resistance there more time is required when ironing. However some designers could see this as a benefit as a crushed affect could be attractive .Kelly Michelle (2018)

The Aesthetic Properties
Plain weaving fabrics have good stability however porosity where there are tiny holes in the fabric. Through these holes in the fabric designers can create a translucence effect where they light shining the garments. The weave can feel textured to touch however drape well on the body and create a nice relaxed look.

 

 

The type of products Created by Plain Weaving

Regarding the fabric organza which are used by the plain weave in fashion there are beautiful silk organza wedding dressed created for that special occasion. Some dresses have different styles creating different features. Jenifer Lungs (2015)
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References
Encyclopaedia Britannia, (2018) Plain Weaving Textile. https://www.britannica.com/technology/plain-weave (09/11/18)
History of Clothing, (2018)The History of Weaving.http://www.historyofclothing.com/making-clothing/history-of-weaving/ (05/11/18)
Jennifer (Lunuss), (2015) Organza Fabric Knowledge. https://www.lunss.com/blog/organza-fabric-knowledge-6.html (09/11/18)
Kelly Michelle, (2018) Catwalk Yourself.http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/normalplain-weave/ (09/11/18)
Textile School, (20/03/18) Plain Weaves- Pattern. https://www.textileschool.com/123/plain-weaves/ (05/11/18)
Understanding Textiles, (26/07/18) Plain weave. http://understanding-textiles.blogspot.com/2010/07/plain-weave.html (23/10/18)